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Forum Home > Aviones Militares - Military Aircraft > F-16A IN PROGRESS | ||
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
This is Hasegawa F-16 A, to make it interesting I also requested the following. *Black Box Cockpit upgrade. *Aires Ejection Seats. *Aires Jet Nozzle. *Master Model Pitot and AOA probes. *Eduard cockpit color Photo Edge. *Eduard Brassin Lockheed Martin F-16 wheels. To accomodate the cockpit the original control panel hood was removed and replaced also the rear of the cockpit was also removed and replaced by the black box parts. Photo Edge applied side panels detailed and weathered. EJECTION SEAT Painted MM Aircraft Grey for all metal parts, Cushion was painted with MM Grey Green both colors thinned down and allowed to thoroughly dry. Details painted. Seat was given a wash and weathered. Seat photo edge applied. Seat presented. FUSELAGE Upper and Lower Fuselage sections. Fuselage phase completed. WINGS ENGINE COWLING Part of Aires Resin Engine tail end upgrade (top & rear view) SEALING WITH PUTTY i sealed all unions and crevises, a gloss white coat was applied to the wheel wells and inside the air intake area. I will depict this aircraft with the air speed brakes in the open position. ENGINE EXHAUST For the Nozzle effect I first covered the inside with flat white and primed the outside area with Tamiya primer. with the airbrush I gently sprayed the inside with Alclad II color Burnt iron, to the outside I painted with Alclad II Jet exhaust color as a base color, a basic dark color wash was applied overall to bring out detail, in the inside I applied a few airbrush passes of Alclad hot exhaust manifold color. Then with MIG products the inside of the nozzle was dry brush and once again with Alclad burnt iron using low pressure I painted the exhaust feather ends. On the ouside, I dry-brushed the MIG products smoke effects and painted two bands on the feathers near the engine ring with burnt iron and by the outside feather ends. Applied a coat of dark wash to bring out detail and with SNJ metalic powder I went over the Exhaust casing to remove the excess I used my fingers. for the engine ring I used a mix of Tamiya clear blue diluted as a wash and airbrushed it freely then let it sit to dry. PRE SHADING Image of the model almost ready for preshading Preshade process (top view) Fuel tanks Bottom view LANDING GEAR PREPARATION The landing gear was airbrushed with Tamiya Gloss white and then a dark wash was applied and let to dry overnight. BASE PAINT A coat of MM Camouflage grey was applied lightly to allow the pre shade to show trhough. F-16 bottom view. To achieve the splinter pattern I burned copies of the decal directions and amplified them to scale. Next I used masking paper and with the print attached to an old picture frame I traced the selected pattern and cut it to size. Below is the model with the masking attached, make sure to press on the mask as not to leave openings around the edges. 2nd camouflage color applied. Once the paint is dry you may start removing the masking from the model. | |
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Site Owner Posts: 749 |
WOW | |
-- Pedro J Negron Webmaster email: Pedro.negron@gmail.com
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Moderator Posts: 18 |
Interesante estuve viendo las fotos, veo que vas con gran paciencia, poniendo gran atención a los detalles, me agrada eso. | |
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
Gracias | |
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Site Owner Posts: 749 |
Que bien quedo ese presombreado, que usaste colores tamiya? | |
-- Pedro J Negron Webmaster email: Pedro.negron@gmail.com
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Site Owner Posts: 749 |
Oh perate ese es el set del f-16 que le compramos a Miguel verdad>?! | |
-- Pedro J Negron Webmaster email: Pedro.negron@gmail.com
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
En realidad no se me lo dio Gonzo cuando habiamos quedado en hacer unos f-16 idea de Kelvin. | |
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Administrator Posts: 21 |
El camuflage te quedo de show!!! | |
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Administrator Posts: 21 |
Ese es el kit de Academy! | |
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Site Owner Posts: 749 |
Tu estas loco, eso es Hasegawa, el de Academy lo estoy montando y no se ve asi! | |
-- Pedro J Negron Webmaster email: Pedro.negron@gmail.com
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
No el kit es Hasegawa, Pedro los colores son Model Master, Fulcrum Grey y Humbrol 115 Marine Green. | |
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
Sorry about the time lapse from my last posting, busy at work. Here are some more progress pictures enjoy.. | |
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
Landing gear attached. ![]() Gloss coat applied. ![]() ![]() Decals applied. ![]() ![]() Tact's Pod, Dummy sidewinder (AIM-9) and fuel tanks completed. ![]() ![]() Decal process completed. ![]() ![]() ![]() Next 2 coat of clear for weathering. Hope to see you soon.... | |
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
Weathering applied. | |
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
To remove the wash I use a cotton rag lightly wetted with water. Once satisfied with the weathering apply matt clear coat to the entire model as to seal the wash and protected. | |
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
Sorry for the delay lots of long hours at work. | |
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
Next is how I build the base for the model to include the list of items i used. 1. Tape the edges of the picture frame for protection. 2. Mix Plaste of Paris with the decorative sand and water a little at the time, as if you were mixing concrete. 3. Pour the mixture into the picture frame until leveled. (see picture below). From here: Step 1. spray the clear coat to protect the dry mixure, while painting or weathering. Step 2. mix the Tamiya grey for airbrushing, airbrush the base area to your liking. Step 3. with the scribing tool and the ruler trace the slab divisions. NOTE: in 1/48 scale the slabs shoud measure approximately 2" wide by 5" long. start scribing along. Step 3. Once completed use AK streaking grime and airbrush it on the base here and there refer to Tarmac pictures for the color. Step 4. to cover the divisions I make my own version of "model tar" as follows" mix the modeling paste and the Tamiya XF-1 plus x20 thinner this is because both items are acrylic. Do not dilute as you do with an airbrush mix, leave it kind of thick but no too much. with the siringe pick up some of the mixure and lining up with the slab divisions start filling the gaps. It will look like actual tar until dry. Once all lines are covered put to air dry outside. At the end it should look like this. Next set the model on the base. That is all Folks...... any comments or questions are welcome... | |
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Administrator Posts: 145 |
Thank you very much for following this post. | |
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Administrator Posts: 21 |
Wow te quedo de show!!! | |
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Site Owner Posts: 749 |
Oustanding Presentation I liked it ! | |
-- Pedro J Negron Webmaster email: Pedro.negron@gmail.com
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