News & Reviews
NEW CORRECT TOOLING UPPER HULL ,TRACK MUDGUARD AND FIGHTING COMPARTMENT.
REALISTIC SUSPENSION SYSTEM WITH METAL COIL SPRINGS.
MUDGUARDS WITH SAME PARTING STRUCTURE AS THE REAL VEHICLE.
2 TYPES OF RIVETS FOR SIDE ARMOUR PLATES INCLUDED.
PHOTO-ETCHED METAL PARTS FOR SUPER DETAILING.
METAL GUN BARREL WITH RIFLING.
COMES WITH EXTERNAL FUEL TANK (ASSEMBLE IN OPTION).
DETAILED FLEXIBLE TRACKS.
The war diary of lst Canadian Army Tank Brigade Heavy Support Company for June 1942 described the Carrier, Churchill, 3-inch Gun Mk I as a "temporary expedient to deal with super-heavy enemy tanks, should such be used until the 17- pounder anti--tank gun is issued." This Churchill variant more or less came into being because the British needed to find a weapon that would be powerful enough to defeat German tanks in the event of an invasion. As an expedient measure, it was a quick and effective means of transporting the heaviest possible anti-tank gun on some sort of tank chassis. The British chose the 3-inch, 20-cwt (hundredweight -112 lbs (50.9 kg)) anti-aircraft (AA) gun to fulfil this role, opting to install it in a limited traverse mount on the chassis of the Churchill Mk Ill. The idea of mounting the 3-inch (76- mm) AA gun on a tank chassis for use in the anti-tank role was first raised in March 1941 at a meeting of the Director General of Tanks and Transport (DGTT) committee. Then, the committee was advised that the Defence Committee had requested that the 3 inch AA gun should be carried in some tanks, as a temporary measure until sufficient stocks of the 6 pounder anti-tank gun became available. By 1940, the 3 inch, 20-cwt anti-aircraft gun was being replaced in the British Army by the new 3.7- inch (94-mm) anti-aircraft gun, so a ready stock of the 3-inch guns were available.
Within two weeks of the DGTT committee meeting, the British War Cabinet approved mounting the 3-inch (76-mm] AA gun on a tank chassis, followed a week later by the DGTT informing the Defence Committee that the Churchill chassis was the best choice. Vauxhall Motors Ltd., were asked to design the vehicle and, by the end of April 1941, had more or less completed the general arrangement drawings. Early in July 1941, Vauxhall had completed a wooden mock-up and the Department of Tank Design issued them a contract for 100 Tanks, A22, "Special Type" (Carrier, Churchill, 3 inch Gun, Mk I) on 25 July. Having completed the pilot model, Vauxhall sub-contracted out the assembly to Beyer Peacock & Company of Manchester. In December 1941, the Director General of Tank Supply reduced the order to 24 vehicles, but subsequently increased this to 49 in January 1942. Production began in May 1942 but, with the threat of invasion fading away, the average output was one per week. The contract was completed in early November 1942, and the tanks were assigned the Census Numbers S31273 - S31321.
In appearance, the Carrier, Churchill, 3 inch Gun Mk I resembled a standard Churchill Mk III tank, but without the turret. Instead, it had a large fixed box-type superstructure, which housed the main fighting compartment, with the gun mounted low down at the front to the left of the driver’s position. Each vertical side plate of the superstructure had a circular pistol port. This port was hingeless and had a rapid opening and closing control. Access was either through the hinged door fitted in the rear vertical plate, or through a hinged double door hatch fitted in the roof, which also acted as the commander’s cupola, which was rotatable and equipped with two periscopes. Each side plate had a large stowage bin, one mounted forward on the left and the other mounted to the rear on the right. The No. 33 sighting telescope was mounted in a bracket in an open aperture in the left upper corner of the front plate directly above the driver’s visor, in a position convenient to the layer. The hull sides retained the square escape doors of the Churchill Mk III, the tracks were fully covered, and the engine air intake louvres (on the hull sides) had the opening on top.
A No. 19 wireless set (radio) was housed in the main fighting compartment. This set included an "A" set for general use, a "B" set for short range inter-tank work at troop level, and an intercommunication unit for the crew, so arranged that each member could establish contact with any one of the others. Adequate provision was made for the stowage of both ammunition and equipment, both within the interior and on the exterior of the vehicle. A comprehensive tool kit was provided with the vehicle so that every operation listed in the routine maintenance section of the Carrier, Churchill, 3 inch Gun Mk I Service Instruction Book (August 1942) could be efficiently carried out. Sets of wrenches were also provided to deal with the varying "standard" of bolts and nuts fitted on the vehicle. The commander’s position was located midway along the right side of the superstructure, inside the roof hatch. Directly in front of the commander was the gun layer’s position with the loader on his left. The driver was located in front of the gun layer, in the normal driver’s location for a Churchill tank. Since the 3 inch 20-cwt gun was in a fixed mounting, it could only be used with open sights. The commander was also provided with an external triple-vane sight so that he could bring the driver into rough alignment with the target. The outside vanes were painted white and corresponded to the gun’s five degrees of traverse in either side of the centre line. When a target appeared in the commander’s periscope, the gun was centred, and the commander directed the driver to turn left or right until the centre vane pointed at the target. The gunner then continued the engagement using the five degrees of traverse on the mounting for his fine laying. Obviously, if a target appeared anywhere within the outer vanes, the gun could be laid on that target without moving the vehicle, provided that the gun was on the centre line at the outset. Because of the limited traverse, the driver had to be in place, with engine running, in order that he could traverse the Carrier into rough alignment with the target by making a neutral turn. To assist him in knowing when the gun was reaching the limit of its traverse, he had an indicator alongside his visor.
The gun could only be fired while the vehicle was stationary. Once laid on the target, the gun was fired using a strap with one end connected to the trigger release mechanism, and the rest of the strap forming a harness for the gun layer, who fired the gun by a body movement. The gun layer was provided with two hand wheels, one to elevate the gun, and the other to traverse the gun. Table 18 summarizes the angle of elevation for various ranges. Loading and unloading was carried out by hand. A round of AP ammunition weighed 12% lbs (6 kg). When tiring, the instruction book stated that the rear door had to be open and the engine held at 1,500 revolutions per minute to provide adequate ventilation for the crew. However, it was found during trials that, by redesigning the two electric fans situated at the rear of the fighting compartment to extract air at 900 cubic feet (25 cubic metres) per minute, tiring could be carried out with the Carrier completely closed down. Because of its heavy weight, the gun had to be locked at full elevation when the Carrier was travelling, in order to prevent damage to the gun.
500 yds (457m).... 0.12 degrees
1,000 yds (914m).. 0.26 degrees
1,500 yds (1,372m) 0.47 degrees
2,000 yds (1,829m) 1.10 degrees
2,500 yds (2,286m) 1.32 degrees
3,000 yds (2,743m) 2.12 degrees
3,500 yds (3,200m) 2.53 degrees
4,000 yds (3,658m) 3.42 degrees
4,500 yds (4,115m) not recorded
5,000 yds (4,572m) 5.44 degrees
5,500 yds (5,029m) 6.57 degrees
6,000 yds (5,486m) 8.18 degrees
6,500 yds (5,944m) 9.47 degrees
7,000 yds (6,401m) 11.23 degrees
7,500 yds (6,858m] 13.07 degrees
8,000 yds (7,315m) 14.59 degrees
Crew: four (commander, gun layer, loader, driver)
Weight: 39 tons (40 tonnes)
Length: 26 feet 1 inch (8.0 metres) including gun
Width: 10 feet 8 inches (3.3 metres) with air intake louvres
Height: 9 feet 1 inch (2.8 metres)
Length of tracks on ground: 12 feet 8 inches (3.9 metres)
Width over tracks: 9 feet 1 inch (2.8 metres)
Clearance under hull: 1 foot 9 inches (53.3 centimetres)
Armour thickness: Superstructure: frontal plate (basically an extension
of the vertical driver’s visor plate) 89 millimetres
Side plates: 76 millimetres (3.0 inches)
Rear plate: 76 millimetres (3.0 inches)
Roof plate: 15 millimetres (0.6 inches)
Road speed 15.5 mph (25 kph)
Cross country speed 8 mph (13 kph)(approx.)
Engine: 12 cylinder Vauxhall Bedford twin-six 350 hp
Weight of engine: 3,376 lbs (1,531 kg)(dry)
Fording depth: 3 feet 4 inches (1.0 metres) without preparation
Trench crossing ability: 10 feet (3.0 metres)
Vertical obstacle capacity: 2 feet 6 inches (0.8 metres)
Armament: 3-inch (76—mm), 20-cwt
(50.9 kg)) high velocity anti—aircraft gun
Elevation: minus 10 degrees to plus 15 degrees
Traverse: 5 degrees either side of the centre line
Muzzle velocity: 2000 feet (610 metres) per second (able to penetrate
100 millimetres (4 inches) of armour at 200 yards
Ammunition stowage: 55 rounds of armour piercing and 10 rounds of high
Remarks: Each tank was also supplied with one .303-inch Bren
Mk I machine gun with an anti—aircraft mounting and
six 100 round drum type magazines, and two .45
calibre Thompson sub-machine guns with thirty-two
20-round box type magazines each.
From AFV Club stated to be included in the kit:
- New correct tooling upper hull, track guard, and fighting compartment
- Realistic suspension with coil springs
- Photo etched parts for super detailing
- Metal gun barrel with rifling
- External fuel tanks
- Detailed flexible track
Newly designed Tiger I Mid- Production w/Zimmerit
Slide-molded muzzle brake included
Realistic ventilator with optional cover
Cupola ring delicately reproduced w/weld seams
Mantlet produced as per original
Spare track links can be hung on turret sides
2 damaged wheels and 2 spare tyres to model typical combat damage
One-piece DS tracks for easy assembly
Multi-directional slide-molded cupola w/full detail
One-piece gun barrel w/subtle detail
Driver’s and radio operator’s hatches w/interior details
Delicately detailed cupola ring included
Cupola has internal head-pad ring
Clear parts for individual periscopes in cupola
Separate commander’s hatch swivel arm
Driver’s version port is movable upward/downward
Newly tooled Zimmerit molded on hull plus turret
Working escape hatch can be assembled open/closed
Headlight can be omitted
Upgraded details on hull bottom delicately produced to look realistic
Finely detailed gun travel lock can be built in 3 configurations
Detailed sprocket and idler wheels included
Intricate road wheels and road wheel hubs
Photo-etched screens for engine deck
Exhaust shields rendered w/details
Detailed multi-part jack
Idler arms w/full details
Finely detailed U-shaped tow hooks
Detailed injection-molded on-vehicle tools
Slide-molded tow cable heads and delicate metal tow cables
What’s in the box? The kit consists of close to 300 parts in olive-colored plastic (not all parts will be used), eight clear parts for periscopes and headlight lenses, one PE fret with 49 parts (again, not all will be used), one decal sheet for five different vehicles, and a twenty-page instruction book on glossy paper. All parts are very crisp with no flash or knock-out pin marks that will be visible in the end, just the usual mold lines and attachment points to clean up. I suggest that you be careful when removing the parts as many are tiny and may end up in the carpet monster. One standout feature is the one-piece idler wheels, truly a remarkable slide molding that captures all the detail.
Construction starts with the lower hull, steps 1-4, which is a single slide-molded piece with nice detail on all sides. Inside that, you add a sparse interior with a PE basket on the left side. You should fill in some holes on each side that will be visible from the outside. You get a transmission that gets some PE parts but will not be visible once done. In fact, if you plan on buttoning up, don’t worry about its interior at all.
Step 5 has you adding the idler wheels, return rollers, and the two-piece drive sprockets. In this step, the kit has small pins to keep the rollers and sprockets movable. The best thing to do is just glue the rollers on. As for the sprockets, I drilled a hole in the back, being careful not to drill through. I then added a piece of rod. I enlarged the hole in the housing and made it so it would slide all the way into the hull. You need to keep the sprockets free so you can add the tracks.
Step 6 has you building the 14-piece bogie units. Care is needed to keep everything in alignment. These four units are highly detailed when finished. The road wheels have small pins to keep them free, but cement them in place as the tracks will not be movable in the end. I also made a small jig to keep everything in alignment.
In step 7, you add the bogies to the hull and detail the rear of the hull. I used my jig to keep the wheels and idlers aligned. Again, use care and all will end well.
Steps 8-10 take us to the tracks. On each side you have a lower flat run and an upper run with the sag built in. Connecting these, you have seven individual pieces for the sprocket and a small flat run to connect to the lower run. In the rear there are thirteen links around the idler to the lower run. First, add the top run with the sag, as all of the fit depends on this. Then fit the sprocket to that. You may need to bend the front link on the top run down to get the proper fit. That is why the sprocket should be left free, to line it up properly. In the rear, you add the thirteen links around the idle wheel and attach it to the lower run. I also had to bend the end link on the lower run to line it up. By the way, do not lose a link, as you get just enough to complete the runs, no extras!
In step 11, the fenders are added to the lower hull and detailed with PE and tools. You have a choice of fenders, either flat or curved with sand shields. I chose the flat, which seemed more common to the US version. I left off the tools until everything was completed and painted. If you open your hatches, you’ll need to paint the upper fender with the interior color, as this will show. I did not glue the fenders at this point; I waited until I was ready to join the upper and lower sections together to get a more controlled fit.
Step 12 involves detailing the inside of the upper hull, mainly the instrument panel, turret rotation, and driver’s hatch handles. The tail lights and underside of the back deck are also added.
In step 13, the instructions say to add the engine deck hatches and a PE screen that fits over the louvers. I left this part off, since on all photos that I’ve seen this was never used. But recognizing that one could now see through to the bottom, I added a piece of plastic card to block it off. The fire extinguisher handle is added, along with a PE shield. You’ll also build the driver’s hatch, which consists of nine parts plus two PE parts, if you open the louver (which I did not). Lots of small parts here, so be careful. A bit over-engineered if you ask me, but beautiful detail in the end.
Step 14 is when I brought together the upper and lower hull with the fenders, after I had the interior all painted. The headlights and siren are also added, along with some tiny plastic and PE parts on inside fenders near the front. Not sure what these were, but they added nice detail.
In step 15, the brush guards and other detail hull parts and tools are added. The brush guards are easy enough to bend and I again left off the tools till the final painting. Step 16 added the exhaust system, along with some more hull details. This is where the fun really began. The muffler is supported by several PE parts that are bent in several directions. This part is a real challenge and all I can say is that I experimented until it looked right. Nothing like saving the best till last! This concludes the assembly of the hull.
Steps 17 and 18 start on the turret. Here is added all the external details, hatches, and periscopes. You have some more PE brackets to add, but these were simple enough. I left off the hatches, periscopes, and covers until final painting was complete. Also, the four tiny tie downs are added to the rear.
In step s 19 and 20, the main gun is built and added to the inside of the turret. Assembly was easy enough, but I had a hard time getting the gun to sit in the turret, probably because I had pre-painted everything. I finally ended up gluing the mantlet in place, then sliding the gun in. Make sure you have the mantlet in the right position to set the elevation of the gun. With a little test-fitting, I was good to go.
Steps 21 to 23 finish the job. It has a nice turret basket and floor. I added the PE screen and supports, then pre-painted it all before adding it to the lower half. Then it is dropped in and assembly is done. You do not have the normal key slots for the turret, so when it is finished, you need to cement the turret in its final position.
I painted mine with all Tamiya paints and used Mig pigments on the running gear. I also left the tracks off until final painting was complete. Each track run was done in two parts. I do it that way so that painting can be more precise. I also added streaking using oil paints, and used chalks for some highlighting and a fine-point marker for subtle chipping.
Some final thoughts… at the end of the instruction sheet it states, “This is a precision-molded plastic kit with exceptionally fine detail. It will require a little more care during assembly, but you feel the end result is well worth the effort.” Well stated and very true! This is not one for beginners, but with patience and test fitting it will indeed be worth the effort. All of the parts fit perfectly with no punch-out marks to deal with. There are many small parts that will require care when handling, but when finished you have a gem of a model. The hardest part for me – as well as others – was the PE for the muffler. It was a bit testy, to say the least, but there is no other way to do it.
Object 279 was a Soviet prototype tank designed in 1959 to be capable of operating on a nuclear-biological-chemical battlefield and even survive the blast wave from a nuclear weapon (from a distance, anyway). The tank had a bowl-shaped body to channel blast energy around itself. The vehicle carried a 130mm main gun capable of firing discarding sabot shells that could penetrate over 400mm of armor. The tank’s own armor was up to 319mm thick. The tank had four tracks to assist it in going over exceedingly rough terrain. In spite of its advantages, the tank was never put into production due to gearbox reliability issues and its inability to cross some bridges and move in swampy areas, due to its weight.
The kit comes with four parts trees, three parts trees for the individual track links, the upper and lower hull sections, a PE fret, a small length of copper wire for the tow cables, and the instruction booklet. Also, there is a print of the box art photo.
Construction starts with the four running gear assemblies and the individual tracks. On the drive sprockets, the aligning pins need to be cut off as they do not line up. There are several mistakes in the instruction throughout the booklet with either mismarked parts numbers or missing parts in the instructions altogether – for example, the tow cable assembly/placement on the model is not shown until the final assembly section 15, where it magically appears on the model.
With the completion of the four individual link track sections, I found this assembly to be one of the real joys after thinking it was going to be a real bear. I used my homemade track jig (a piece of plywood with horizontal and vertical straight edges) to glue the track runs. 82 links will give just the right amount of track sag for each run.
Construction moves on to the rest of the hull and the turret. The 130mm gun comes in two halves and there is some filling and sanding work to be done here, so be careful not to remove any detail. The hatches can be assembled open or closed, but there is no interior with this kit, so I choose to model the vehicle with all hatches closed.
I primed the model with Tamiya spray can grey primer. Then I painted it with Tamiya paints. The tracks were painted on the model with AK Interactive paints. Weathering was done light-handed as this was the only vehicle built and it was only used for testing, so there was no battle damage or long-term exposure to the weather. Some light rust streaks and rain marks along with some light dusting and dirt were added.
I found this kit to go together rather well and would recommend it to any modeler.
Barcode: 0 89195 89144 0
Case Pack: 20 pieces per carton
Box Size: 9.6" x 15" x 3.1"
- Bonus German panzergrenadiers "Ambush at Poteau" 4-Figure Set
Cyber Hobby is pleased to announce another fabulous Orange Box combo featuring WWII German subject matter from its popular 1/35 scale collection. This time in the limelight it’s a Kingtiger with an angular Henschel turret. This type was the main production version of the Tiger II, of which some 492 tanks were manufactured in total. Mounting a powerful 8.8cm KwK.43 L/71 anti-tank gun, this was a formidable weapon system in German hands. Its armor protection was also impressive, causing the vehicle to tip the scales at 69.8 tonnes.
The second half of this 1/35 scale Orange Box set is a fine set of German figures entitled “Ambush at Poteau”. Based on wartime propaganda footage, this Dragon set has been unavailable for quite some time. The legendary set shows German panzergrenadiers pausing after decimating an American column during the Battle of the Bulge. This battle commenced on 16 December 1944 when well-equipped German units made a surprise attack through the Ardennes Forest into thinly defended American territory. Since the Kingtiger was also heavily used during this same desperate battle at the close of 1944, the four soldiers and the tank kit go perfectly together.
where to buy?
Cyber-Hobby has put together the perfect combination to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the ending of the Korean War. The Orange Box set includes a 1/35 M46 Patton as well as GIs fighting in the early part of the war. The tank is extremely well detailed, despite it being originally released some time ago. One remarkable thing about the tank is the colorful markings, which include tiger stripes, fanged teeth and claws. Such markings were designed to frighten superstitious North Koreans. The US Army figures are in action poses, wearing correctly detailed uniforms and weapons. The four GIs combine well with the armored vehicle to produce an atmospheric diorama…courtesy of Orange Box’s legendary low prices.
this set is scheduled for a September 2013 release